![]() ![]() There’s a video below too, but it comes with a bit of a caveat so might not show everything well for you. I’ll start with a few screenshots at different RF values. I tested the following RF values (listed in Handbrake under “Constant Quality”: Defaults for everything else (Handbrake 0.9.9 on OSX).If you have the same DVD and are looking to reproduce this test, the following settings were used: I started with encodes from the “24” DVD (Season 6, Episode 1). It's as if the video has been encoded from a lower frame rate to conform to 24 fps.Here, I’m taking a look at various RF settings in Handbrake, both in terms of visuals and filesize. The weird thing is that fps read outs display a steady 24fps. It is repeatable-that is, every time these particular sections of video play, they will be choppy. It is not an issue with pulldown and it does not seem to be caused by CPU spikes during playback. Problem is, I will occasionally find rough patches (2-3 seconds) in a movie where the frame rate suddenly dives during playback. I have been using handbrake to encode my bluray library as h265 for almost a year now. I use variable framerate during encodes, and set it to the disc's native rate. In the course of a 2 hour movie I can expect one or two of these choppy episodes. My TV has a native 24fps film mode which holds steady during these frame rate drops. It's as if the video has been encoded from a lower frame rate to conform to 24 fps. I have been looking for info for this issue without look so I figure this is as good a place as any. Regardless, I think if I only needed about 300KBps for the same quality as I get now that would solve my issues. ![]() Netflix is good but drops off periodically (bandwidth or just a server issue?). I get 725KBps which is the highest my area supports. *The biggest thing to look forward to is higher quality video for those of us with low bandwidth. And of course places like NETFLIX will adopt this though not sure how long that will take. I've basically given up on it for the most part since I've got plenty of hard drive space, and while I could start ripping to H.265 for the family video server (WDMYCLOUD) it's no use until all of the decoding devices for each of the THREE HDTV's support H.265. You do have to ensure you have the correct builds and settings though or else you can easily get compression artifacts. ![]() The latest builds in apples-to-apples scenarios is close to TWICE the efficiency (HALF the space) so that's good. ![]() Still not many H.265 hardware decoders and CPU decoding (software) is too intensive for most mobile devices. Imgburn (create ISO image of DVD folder for playback on my Western Digital media player)Ī LOT has changed in the last year, however compatibility is going to be a problem for many. DVD Fab (only use for DVD or BluRay copyright removal) DVD Decrypter (remove copyright on DVD) mkvtoolnix (mux in or remove audio/subs or join video) I tend to use AAC 128kbps stereo or 192kbps Surround, or uncompressed DTS for larger BluRay file) *(the smaller the file size, the more important the Optimize setting but in general more than Medium is overkill) Optimize Video-> SLOW or MEDIUM (slow for final BluRay compression) Bitrate kbps (typical 800 to 2000 for anime/cartoon 5000 to 10,000 for HD video) FILTER-> usually only Decomb for anything interlaced like DVD-Video, or some deblocking for really bad quality anime/cartoon otherwise not used I've tried basically ALL the good video software out there, and I've come back to Handbrake and optimized my profile for the best quality/size. Since the only real advantage to x265 is file size it was ridiculous that DIVX had a minimum file size that didn't make sense.ĭecoding x265 is also problematic since most devices don't have a hardware decoder so it's mainly a PC likely that could decode it in software. I did x265 in DIVX but I could get better quality in Handbrake at the same file size with x264. There aren't any good ones, stick with x264. ![]()
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